Olga Nasonova: “We are spoiled for good service, but not ready to pay much”
18 June 12:53
INTERVIEW
The restaurant business has experienced many shocks in recent years – covid, a full-scale invasion, followed by emigration, occupation, and blackouts. Every year the situation is only getting worse, and restaurateurs literally have to balance and try to survive. In addition, Ukrainians change their preferences in food, drinks, and service from year to year, and restaurateurs must take all this into account if they want to have regular customers. Komersant found out whether there are any visitors today, what restaurateurs can offer them, and how they are trying to stay afloat until the situation changes dramatically.
Three years after the full-scale invasion, some restaurants ended up in the occupied territory, some in the frontline zone, some are closing in less shelled regions, and some are opening. Do you have any data on how many restaurants are left in Ukraine?
– It is difficult to give an exact number when the market is changing so rapidly. In 2022, before the invasion, there were about 43 thousand restaurants in Ukraine, and in the same year, about 7 thousand restaurants closed or ended up in the occupied territories. During the year, almost half of them resumed operations or relocated, but many never reopened. In 2023, there were high hopes for the end of the war, as new restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops began to open, especially in large cities and western Ukraine. But by the end of 2023, restaurants began to close again, both new ones and those that had been operating for years. And this “swing” continues to this day. In fact, in 2025, we returned to the situation of 2022 – minus 7 thousand restaurants compared to the pre-war period. Currently, there are 36-37 thousand restaurants in Ukraine, and the market continues to change.
What restaurants have survived despite all the turmoil and changes?
– First of all, chain restaurants have survived. And not just survived – they continue to develop. For example, everyone knows Puzata Khata, Lviv Croissants, McDonald’s, etc. They survived thanks to their financial and human resources: the ability to move people, products, equipment from one location to another, and communication between branches. Some are successfully operating under a franchise. What I call the “golden league” also survived and are developing – projects with successful concepts that “made it” even during the war. There are not many of them – about 5-7% of the market, but they are profitable and visible on social media. In general, chain establishments and the “golden league” occupy about 40% of the market. Unfortunately, the other 60% are just surviving.
There is also a sad trend in the restaurant business – “folding”. The number of solvent consumers is decreasing every month: some have less money, some have moved away, some have radically changed their lifestyle. The situation is the same with the staff – there are fewer and fewer of them, especially professionals. Restaurant profits are falling due to rising costs. As a result, the number of restaurants is also decreasing. There is a lack of customers, staff, and profitability.
Restaurateurs have experienced many shocks in recent years – COVID, invasions, and blackouts. What is the biggest obstacle to the normal operation of restaurants now?
– There are many problems, it’s a whole “bouquet”. With the outbreak of the war, the main problem was the safety of visitors – and it still remains relevant. In many cities, normal operation of establishments is impossible. There were problems with electricity – it’s not so urgent now, but generators are not sold. This was compounded by a shortage of staff, which is still being felt. Then came the rise in food prices and a decrease in margins. Solvency is decreasing. And one of the most recent factors is mobilization. Because of it, we have to rebuild the staff: we hire young people under 25, women, older people, or reserved men. Often without experience. As a result, the service suffers.
In 2022, during the period of uncertainty, shawarma and pizza were very popular. What kind of cuisine is now a priority for Ukrainians?
– Oddly enough, Ukrainians now prefer simple food. There is a great demand for simple dishes such as pizza, sushi, home cooking, Georgian cuisine, burgers, and pastries. Gourmet restaurants are not opening. Ukraine can hardly be called a gastronomically progressive country today – there has been a certain culinary regression. People don’t want to experiment in wartime. Restaurants sell what is definitely in demand. The eternal Caesar salad, kebabs, shawarma, Philadelphia sushi, and meat pizzas are selling well.
Sushi and pizza have become an integral part of Ukrainian life. What cuisine is the leader today?
– Not Ukrainian, unfortunately. Ukrainian cuisine is mostly home-cooked or festive. There are no tourists who used to visit Ukrainian restaurants regularly anymore. The leading cuisines are those that are difficult to prepare at home, such as Italian, Japanese, Georgian, and bakeries with interesting pastries and confectionery. In big cities, all-day dining and mixed cuisines are popular.
What happened to shawarma, which was at its peak in 2022?
– Shawarma has almost ceased to be “fashionable”. It has returned to markets and bus stops. In 2022, fast food was actively developing, especially “men’s” cuisine – shawarma, belyashi, pies, meat dishes. After women left, men became the main consumers. But since 2023, the situation has changed: the audience has become more female, and women are more attentive to food. Today, establishments targeting a female audience are doing better. And traditionally “male” formats – pubs, steak houses – are going through difficult times.
Is there still a VIP segment on the market?
– Yes, and it is doing very well. The middle segment has cash gaps – despite normal attendance, there is a lack of funds due to rising salaries, food costs, and utility bills. In the premium segment, there are fewer such problems – the public there does not count every penny, but demands quality. And premium restaurants can provide it. Even though some customers have left, there are enough people left to maintain profitability.
There is a lot of competition among restaurateurs. How do they survive?
– The Ukrainian restaurant market is characterized by a high level of service and a low check. We are used to good service, but we are not ready to pay a lot. There are few solvent customers, so the competition is fierce. Most restaurants are reducing their menus, but they are focusing on quality. They attract customers with promotions, discounts, and entertainment. Pop-up days with guest chefs, live music, participation in charity events and festivals are popular. In a crisis, price is crucial – combo menus and promotional offers work.
If someone decides to open a restaurant today, what should they consider to attract customers?
– You need to think through the concept well. Then there will be no problems with attracting customers. Two types of establishments are successful today: the first are conservative, with a proven dish for an adequate price; the second are bright, innovative, and stand out for their product and atmosphere. Each type requires different locations and different audiences.
What new trends have emerged in the restaurant business in recent years?
– The growth of delivery has been a stable trend since the pandemic. You can work only for delivery – the dark kitchen format is in demand. Coffee shops and bakeries are popular – their number has doubled. Coffee shops have become a place of socialization, and sometimes coworking spaces or points of resilience. The restaurant business is merging with retail: coffee shops, bars, and food zones are appearing in supermarkets, shops, and beauty salons. The trend of “neighborhood restaurants” is also gaining momentum. Festivals and fairs are another bright wartime trend.
Coffee shops are disappearing. Is it a fad?
– There are too many of them. There can be several coffee shops in one residential complex, which are not much different. Coffee prices have gone up, as have barista salaries. For a cappuccino, they ask for 70 UAH – and this is in a disposable cup. People expect comfort for that kind of money. So the best ones stay. Sales of coffee machines have also increased, and many people have decided to cook at home “like in a coffee shop” – both cheaper and more convenient.
What happened to children’s cafes? Is their era over?
– Yes, there are fewer children – some of them have moved away, and the birth rate has fallen. But another factor is that children’s entertainment complexes have “pulled away” the audience. Children are more interested in playing and then eating.
What are your forecasts for the restaurant business in Ukraine?
– Only those who can withstand it will survive. After the war, there will be a surge in attendance at restaurants and bars. People will want to rejoice, walk, celebrate. Tourists will come. But to survive until then, you need resources – financial, human, emotional. Those who survive will grow, including through franchises. And the weak ones will close. The strongest will remain until the end of the war.
Author: Alla Dunina
