Light by the hour, generators worth millions, and a “war” menu: how the restaurant business survives
4 February 15:20
Mass power outages, freezing temperatures, and declining traffic have become yet another challenge for the restaurant business during the war. Establishments are forced to do more than just adapt—they are actually rebuilding their business models.
In an exclusive commentary for "Komersant Ukrainian", restaurant consultant and director of the Restaurants of Ukraine analytical center Olga Nasonova discussed which formats have proven to be the most resilient, where costs are becoming critical, and whether a “war” model of restaurants is emerging in Ukraine.
Who survives without electricity: it’s not the format, but readiness
The key factor for survival during prolonged power outages was not so much the concept of the establishment as its readiness for energy independence.
“The establishments that are viable are those that have people and a power source — a generator, inverter, gas, or other auxiliary solutions that allow them to keep going,” explains Nasonova.
Small coffee shops, especially those operating in small retail units or kiosks, proved to be the most resilient in terms of technical capabilities. They have a compact menu, a minimal set of equipment, and can easily install a generator without conflicts with residents, notes restaurant consultant and director of the Restaurants of Ukraine analytical center.
However, such formats have another vulnerability—the lack of a financial cushion. Even with a generator, individual coffee shops often cannot withstand the drop in traffic: in winter, people leave their homes less often, high-traffic locations become empty, and revenue falls.
Establishments in separate buildings — with barbecues, wood-burning stoves, and open fires — constitute a separate category . They can cook partially without electricity, but even here, there is no complete autonomy: ventilation, exhaust fans, and basic processes still depend on electricity.
The kitchen — the main area of losses
Power outages have been most critical for kitchens. Modern restaurant equipment is extremely energy-intensive. A stove and combi oven consume 25–30 kW per hour.
“If an establishment operates for 10 hours, fuel costs can reach 18,000 hryvnia per day, and over half a million per month. That is why many restaurants drastically reduce their menus during power outages, leaving only those items that can be prepared with minimal load on the generator,” says Nastnova.
On the other hand, the situation is better with food storage: professional refrigerators and freezers maintain the temperature longer and consume relatively little electricity.
Heating the premises was an additional blow. During cold spells, the cost of heat guns or ventilation was often not included in the planning for autonomous operation — and now this has become a critical problem for many establishments.
Generators — no alternatives
Despite experiments with inverters, solar panels, and power banks, there is no real competitor to generators in the restaurant business.
“A restaurant is an energy-intensive business. Power banks are only good for recharging guests’ phones. You can’t run a kitchen without a generator,” Nasonova emphasizes.
Inverters can partially cover the needs of a bar or refrigeration equipment, but for a kitchen to function properly, you need 20–25 kW of power or more — and here, a generator remains the only option.
The “wartime” menu: short, simple, well thought out
Energy restrictions have accelerated the trend toward simplifying menus. Establishments are abandoning deep-fried foods, complex baked goods, and dishes that require long periods of use of combi steamers.
At the same time, restaurants with grills, tandoors, or wood-fired ovens have gained a competitive advantage — they can maintain most of their menu even during blackouts.
“Expansive menus with large inventories are a thing of the past. Such models are simply unprofitable,” notes Nasonova.
In January, consumer behavior changed dramatically. According to restaurateurs’ estimates, attendance fell by half on average, and the average check fell along with it.
The reasons are mundane: cold weather, heating problems, slippery sidewalks, extended holidays, and the departure of some residents from cities.
Instead, delivery services have grown rapidly, especially for so-called comfort foods—borscht, cutlets, mashed potatoes, and baked meat. People are ordering simple home-style meals rather than “festive” foods, which are impossible to prepare at home without electricity or gas.
Creativity or ingenuity?
It is difficult to talk about bright creative solutions in the restaurant business now, the expert believes. The main “creativity” is in technical solutions.
However, Nasonova cites the case of the seafood restaurant Egersund, which launched a distribution line with Ukrainian comfort food — borscht, porridge, and fried chicken legs — as a telling example.
“An establishment that is not at all about Ukrainian cuisine began to prepare it — and it worked,” Nasonova notes.
Has a “war” business model for restaurants been formed?
According to Olga Nasonova, the answer is obvious — yes. And this model will remain in the industry for a long time.
Its key elements are
- energy independence (generators, inverters, gas, water supplies);
- a short, optimized menu;
- minimal inventory;
- versatile staff capable of performing multiple functions.
“Restaurants have learned to operate with half the staff—and still deliver high quality. This model will remain in place after the war,” Nasonova concludes.
The war experience has forced businesses to become more economical, flexible, and rational. And it seems that there will be no return to “pre-war” approaches — with large menus and excessive costs.
