Limited electricity hours, generators costing millions, and a “wartime” menu: how the restaurant industry is surviving
4 February 15:20
РОЗБІР ВІД 
Widespread power outages, freezing temperatures, and a drop in foot traffic have become yet another challenge for the restaurant industry amid the war. Establishments are forced to do more than just adapt—they are effectively overhauling their business models.
In an exclusive interview with "Komersant Ukrainian" Olga Nasonova, a restaurant consultant and director of the “Restaurants of Ukraine” analytical center.
Who survives without power: it’s not the format, but readiness
The key factor for survival amid prolonged power outages has been not so much the establishment’s concept as its readiness for energy independence.
“The establishments that are viable are those that have people and have power generation—a generator, an inverter, gas, or other auxiliary solutions that allow them to stay afloat,” explains Nasonova.
Small coffee shops, particularly those operating in small retail units or kiosks, proved to be the most resilient in terms of technical capabilities. They have a compact menu, a minimal set of equipment, and can easily install a generator without conflicts with residents, notes the restaurant consultant and director of the “Restaurants of Ukraine” analytical center.
However, such formats have another vulnerability—the lack of a financial cushion. Even with a generator, individual coffee shops often cannot withstand the drop in foot traffic: in winter, people leave their homes less often, high-traffic locations become “empty,” and revenue drops.
A separate category consists of establishments in standalone buildings—with grills, wood-fired ovens, and open flames. They can cook partially without electricity, but even here, full autonomy does not exist: ventilation, exhaust fans, and basic processes still depend on electricity.
The kitchen is the main area of loss
Power outages have been most critical for the kitchen. Modern restaurant equipment is extremely energy-intensive. A stove and a combi-steamer alone consume 25–30 kW per hour.
“If an establishment operates for 10 hours, fuel costs can reach 18,000 hryvnias per day, and over half a million per month. That is why many restaurants drastically cut their menus during outages, keeping only those items that can be prepared with minimal strain on the generator,” says Nastnova.
The situation is better when it comes to food storage: professional refrigerators and freezers maintain temperature longer and consume relatively little electricity.
Heating the dining areas has been an additional blow. During cold snaps, costs for heat guns or ventilation were often not factored into plans for autonomous operation—and now this has become a critical problem for many establishments.
Generators—no alternatives
Despite experiments with inverters, solar panels, or power banks, there is no real competitor to generators in the restaurant business.
“A restaurant is an energy-intensive business. Power banks are only good for recharging guests’ phones. You can’t run a kitchen without a generator,” emphasizes Nasonova.
Inverters can partially meet the needs of a bar or refrigeration equipment, but for the kitchen to operate fully, power of 20–25 kW or more is required—and here, a generator remains the only option.
A “wartime” menu: short, simple, and well-thought-out
Energy restrictions have accelerated the trend toward simplifying menus. Establishments are widely abandoning deep-fried foods, complex pastries, and dishes that require prolonged use of combi ovens.
At the same time, restaurants with grills, tandoors, or wood-fired ovens have gained a competitive advantage—they can maintain most of their menu even during blackouts.
“Bloated menus with large inventories are a thing of the past. Such models are simply unprofitable,” notes Nasonova.
In January, consumer behavior changed dramatically. According to restaurateurs’ estimates, foot traffic fell by half on average, and the average check dropped along with it.
The reasons are practical: cold weather, heating problems, slippery sidewalks, extended holidays, and the departure of some residents from cities.
In contrast, delivery orders surged, especially for so-called comfort food—borscht, cutlets, mashed potatoes, and roasted meat. People aren’t ordering “festive” food, but simple home-style dishes that are impossible to cook at home without electricity or gas.
Creativity or ingenuity?
It’s hard to talk about striking creative solutions in the restaurant business right now, the expert believes. The main “creativity” lies in technical solutions.
However, Nasonova cites the case of the seafood restaurant “Egersund” as a telling example; it launched a takeout line featuring Ukrainian comfort food—borscht, porridge, and roasted chicken drumsticks.
“An establishment that isn’t about Ukrainian cuisine at all started preparing it—and it worked,” notes Nasonova.
Has a “war” business model for restaurants taken shape?
According to Olga Nasonova, the answer is already clear—yes. And this model will remain with the industry for a long time.
Its key elements:
- energy independence (generators, inverters, gas, water reserves);
- a short, optimized menu;
- minimal inventory;
- versatile staff capable of performing multiple functions.
“Restaurants have learned to operate with half the staff—and still deliver high quality. This model will remain even after the war,” concludes Nasonova.
The war experience has forced businesses to become more frugal, flexible, and efficient. And it seems that a return to “pre-war” approaches—with extensive menus and excessive spending—is no longer on the horizon.
