The “Tatarka” restaurant has come under fire for its menu and the owner’s comments on deportation
2 June 18:05
A new restaurant called “Tatarka” recently opened in Odesa, positioning its cuisine as Crimean. This has sparked a wave of debate and criticism due to its name and concept.
“Tatarka” is a chain of restaurants operating under a franchise model and is represented in over 16 locations across various cities. Two years ago, the brand’s name became the subject of public debate on social media.
Critics noted that the use of the word “Tatarka” could create a false impression of Crimean Tatar culture, since the ethnonym “Tatars” is traditionally associated with the peoples of the Volga region, not with the indigenous population of Crimea—the Crimean Tatars.
According to the authors, using the name “Tatarka” as a commercial brand for a restaurant undermines the meaning of the ethnonym and negatively affects the perception of Crimean Tatar identity.
What is known about the incident—read more in the article "Komersant Ukrainian"
The Odessa restaurant opened this year. The opening celebration, which took place on May 9, was themed around Romani culture.
The restaurant’s owner, Oleksandra Mykolyuk, posted a video in which she appeared in traditional Romani attire at the entrance to the establishment. In her post, she noted that the concept of the event involved inviting “nomadic peoples” and creating the atmosphere of an impromptu bar inspired by the character Thomas Shelby. The entrepreneur also emphasized that living in different countries has shaped her personal attitude toward travel and the nomadic way of life.
In the comments under the Instagram post, many users expressed confusion and criticism regarding the chosen concept. Among the main concerns was the presence of pork dishes and alcoholic beverages on the menu. Commenters pointed out that Crimean Tatars traditionally practice Islam, whose norms prohibit the consumption of pork and alcohol.
The situation was complicated by comments from the restaurant chain’s owner, Vladimir Biryukov. In response to the criticism, he wrote mocking remarks and even threatened “deportation.”
Zakhida Adilova, a representative of the Crimean Tatar community, stated on her Facebook page that the problem is not merely the establishment’s use of elements of a foreign culture. Although, she noted, these elements are also, in some cases, presented incorrectly or distorted.
“While the world is paying increasing attention to the protection of indigenous peoples’ rights and decolonization processes, a phenomenon that could be called internal gastronomic colonialism is spreading in Ukraine. People who have no connection to Crimean Tatar culture, as well as large restaurant chains and entrepreneurs, are using our name and traditional dishes, presenting them in a simplified and stereotypical manner and reaping significant profits from it,” Adilova noted.
She was outraged not only by the use of Crimean Tatar symbols and imagery, but also by the very interpretation of the national cuisine.
Zakhida Adilova pointed out that traditional Crimean Tatar dishes have deep cultural significance and should not be served in a fast-food format or positioned as appetizers to accompany alcoholic beverages.
She considers the inclusion of pork in dishes presented by the establishment as Crimean Tatar to be a particular insult. As is well known, this contradicts the religious and cultural traditions of the people, the majority of whom are Muslim.
According to Adilova, Crimean Tatar cuisine is an important component of the national heritage and deserves to be preserved and promoted in its authentic form. She emphasized that dishes such as chebureki and yantiki are historically not prepared with pork and are not associated with alcohol consumption. In her view, this culinary tradition has world-class cultural value and requires protection, not commercial simplification.
However, it was not the restaurant’s concept itself that caused the biggest stir, but rather its management’s reaction to the criticism.
Under one of the restaurant’s social media posts, the chain’s owner, Volodymyr Biryukov, instead of providing an explanation or responding to the criticism constructively, got into an argument with users.
In particular, after one commenter stated that she would defend the history, culture, and culinary traditions of her people, a user with the nickname vladymyr_b responded with a dismissive comment.
When the woman pointed out that such behavior could lead to conflict with an entire nation, he replied in Russian: “We’re looking forward to it, the whole nation; get ready for deportation.”
Following a wave of outrage, this comment was deleted, but its content had already spread across social media and sparked a strong public reaction.
Reaction of the Crimean Tatar community and the public
The mention of a possible “deportation” of Crimean Tatars provoked the strongest reaction in society. Such statements were perceived as particularly painful given the tragic chapters in the people’s history and caused a wave of outrage among Crimean Tatars and the Ukrainian public.
Refat Chubarov, Chairman of the Mejlis of the Crimean Tatar People, emphasized that any public threats cannot be ignored, especially if they are directed not at individuals but at an entire ethnic community. In his view, such rhetoric is unacceptable and requires proper assessment.
Ukrainian MP Tamila Tasheva also reacted to the situation. She recalled that the forced deportation of Crimean Tatars in 1944 is one of the most tragic crimes of the Soviet totalitarian regime. According to her, this event is recognized as the genocide of the Crimean Tatar people, which resulted in the death of a significant portion of the nation.
Ukrainian journalist and public figure of Crimean Tatar origin, Ayder Muzhdabaev, called on Ukrainian citizens not to support establishments linked to the scandal. In addition, he appealed to the Security Service of Ukraine and the Office of the Prosecutor General to provide a legal assessment of public statements which, in his opinion, may contain signs of inciting interethnic hatred and justifying crimes against the Crimean Tatar people.
The Deportation of the Crimean Tatars: A Historical Tragedy
The Soviet authorities justified the mass deportation of Crimean Tatars from Crimea in May 1944 by accusing a portion of the population of allegedly collaborating with Nazi Germany.
At the same time, historical sources indicate that tens of thousands of Crimean Tatars fought in the Red Army during World War II. Among them were well-known military figures, including Amet-Khan Sultan, twice Hero of the Soviet Union, and Alime Abdenanova, a female intelligence officer who received high state awards.
The deportation operation began following a decision by the Soviet leadership in May 1944.
NKVD officers went from house to house among the Crimean Tatars, giving people minimal time to pack. Afterward, they were forcibly taken to train stations and sent to special resettlement sites in freight cars.
The transport took place under harsh conditions: the deportees suffered from a lack of food, water, and medical care. According to various estimates, thousands of people died during the transport alone.
Overall, the consequences of the deportation proved catastrophic for the Crimean Tatar people—researchers estimate the losses at between one-third and nearly half of the entire population that was forcibly evicted.
